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8.31 MB (8,713,565 bytes)

Min: Android 4.1 (Jam Bean, Programming interface 16)

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How to build Stairs & Steps part 2

The Technique
Building Stairs is a relatively easy process if you carefully follow the information we have provided. So lets get started! Calculating the rise and run of the staircase; The very first step in building any staircase is to figure the rise and run which actually means dividing the distance you have to climb by the average rise of a step (7″) this calculation will tell you how long the stair case has to be to achieve that goal. To get started, measure from the ground up (or down) to the location you are trying to get, this will give you the total vertical height that you need to achieve. You will then divide this total vertical height by the average step rise (7″) this calculation will give you the number of steps needed. Example; if you have a total vertical height of 96″ when divided by 7 you get 13.71 rounded down to 13 (this is the number of steps) now divide the 96″ (vertical height) by 13 (Number of steps) and you get 7.38″ per step so the rise will be 7.38″ per step. To figure the run (distance the stair case will travel) you need to know that with a step of 7.38 the average tread (part you step on) is approximately 10″, we multiply the rise (step height) times the average tread (10″-step width) and we get a run of 73.84 or 73-7/8″ long. Simple huh? These calculations work the same for both wood or concrete applications. Lets move on! Cutting the stringers: Before marking out the steps on the stringers you must first determine how you will attach them, will they be attached under the floor joist, or onto the edge of the floor joist so that the top step ends up even with the floor? You must decide how it will best work for your application. I have always felt more secure with the stringers attached to the edge or the rim of the floor joist with blocking added for strength. Lets start marking as if we were attaching them in this manner; take your carpenters square and start at the right end of the 2″x12″ stringer. First measure 10″ away from the end and make a mark, this 10″ represents the top tread. Lay your carpenters square with the 7″ mark meeting the mark you made on the board, holding the two marks aligned rotate the square so that the 10″ mark on the other angle of the square meet the same edge of the board as the first mark making a “V” shape on the stringer (See article below). This will represent the rise (7″) and tread (10″), scribe the mark on the board and slide the square straight down until the 7″ mark meets the 10″ mark you just made this will allow you to mark another identical “V” shape on the board. Continue this process until you have marked the entire length of the run. You should have a series of “V” shaped marks all with a “7” line on one edge (representing the rise) and 10″ line on the other edge of the “V”(which represents the tread). When you have marked the entire distance, measure down 5-1/2″ from the very last 10″ tread mark and make a mark, cut the stringer at this mark at a 90 degree angle, this will be the bottom of the stringer. See article below (popular mechanics) Once the first stringer is cut and verified trace this pattern onto the other two stringers so that all three will be exactly the same. Attach the stringers to the structure and level so that you are perfectly level from side-to-side. Now you are ready to attach your risers and your treads. Attaching the risers first is always recommended. The risers can be a 1″x6″ board and as stated earlier we recommend two 2″x6″ boards for the treads with a 1-8″-1/4” space between them. Screw the treads into place to complete the staircase. If your stair case is fairly long you will probably want to build a landing at the half way point. A landing is merely a platform securely built to attach the stair cases to. See articles below for further clarification.

Building the Stairs/The Landing/The Stair Rails
Here is a video that takes you through every step of the way from laying out the stringers, building the landing, cutting the stringers, building the stairs and finally the stair rails. This eight minute video will have you building like a professional!
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EZ Stairs
Here is a video (with contact info) that shows you how to build the stair case without almost no cutting at all! This stair case is built using a special bracket. This set up is pretty much amazing, especially for the do it yourselfer!
Designing the Stairs
Here is a great article describing several stair designs. Once you open the link scroll down past the advertisements and you will be privy to a lot of detail in stairs and stair design. View the Article >>>
Building the Stairs
Here is a great article with details on building stairs for both under and side applications. You can’t beat the detail on this article.  View the Article >>>
Books and DVDs
Building Stairs

This book will teach you everything from calculations, layout, design and construction, the cost of the book is small when compared to the knowledge it provides. Better get a copy today!

This book was written by the pros for the pros. You will learn many tricks of the trade as well as customizing tips. This is a great resource to have on hand for your project!


How to build Stairs & Steps

Building stairs will offer the opportunity for you to step up to the next phase of your project. Stairs can be constructed of several materials; wood, concrete, metal, rock, plastic and a just about any other solid surface that can be modified to create a pattern of steps reaching from one platform to the next. Stairs in one form or another have been around since the beginning of time. Nature forms stairs naturally through the erosion of rocks to fallen trees stacked on a hillside. In this article we will discuss stairs as used in a residential application whether it is for your home to reach from one floor to another, or for your deck to step down to your yard. The following information is designated to aid you in constructing stairs out of several types of materials. We will cover construction in detail through videos and articles that we have searched out for your convenience and if for some reason you have more questions you can simply ask our experts at the bottom of each article or go to our forum to see what others think. Lets get started on your new project!

Search The DIY Home Pro’s How To Guides:
Quick Links
What You’ll Need
The Technique
Books and DVDs
Hire A Contractor
Ask Our Experts
Tools Needed
Materials Needed

What You’ll Need
Building stairs will require a few specific tools to complete the job both properly and professionally. Please make sure that you have the right tool for the job it will make the job easier and safer. We have provided a list of needed tools and materials for your convenience.

The Tools You’ll Need

Skill Saw
A skill saw will be used for cutting all boards to create the stairs, a good skill saw with a sharp blade will be required for this job. Skil 5480-01 13 Amp 7-1/4-Inch Circular Saw Kit
A hammer will be used to construct the stairs, a good framing hammer will work excellent in this application. Stanley 51-621 16-Ounce Curve Claw Fiberglass Hammer
A level will be used to make sure all stringers are level from one side to the other, make sure you have a quality level on hand for this job! Black & Decker BDSL10 36-Inch Gecko Grip Level with Accu Mark
Trowel (concrete)
If you are building concrete stairs you will need a good trowel such as the one on the attached link to get you through the job! Marshalltown Trowel 14602 Magnesium Float
Tape Measure
A tape measure will be used to measure and mark all of the boards as you cut them to fit each section of the job.
The Materials You’ll Need

2″x12″ Lumber
If you are building wood stairs you will need some 2″x12″ stringers (typical) these will run the full length of the stair case. This type of lumber is available at your local home improvement store, be sure to check your local code for grade of lumber (usually #1 grade suggested).
2″x6″ Lumber
The treads on your stair case will need to be a minimum of 10″ in width for your average rise of 7″ to 7-1/2″, a pair of 2″x6″ for the treads will work out perfectly. 2″x6″ lumber is available at most home improvement stores, be sure to check the local codes for the grade of lumber required.
For wood stairs the nails in the following link will work perfectly, we recommend 16p sinkers for inside applications and 16p cement coated for outdoor applications. Maze Nails 16D Trt Lumber Nail 50Lb T4491S050
3/4″ Plywood: (Concrete application)
If you are building concrete steps for an outside application you will need to build forms for the steps, 3/4″ plywood works great for this purpose and is available at all home improvement stores.

part 2 — >

How to Install Insulation in Your Home part 2

The Technique
Installing Insulation is not a complicated task however; to do it right several guidelines must be adhered to. Your local municipality will have specific “R” factors to insure your home will meet basic energy efficiency standards. These standards are will help reduce the amount of energy loss due to inadequate protection from natures seasonal temperatures. To find out your required insulation factor visit  this is the Department of Energy website, use the zip code calculator to find out specifics for your area. This is a pretty neat website it gives you the average number of heating days per year and the same with the cooling, once you input the needed data it will give you the insulation “R” factors needed. Now lets take a quick look at the installation process: Wall insulation will be cut to lengths and gently tucked into the space between the wall studs. During this process you do not want to compress the insulation, you just tuck it in making sure it fits tight in both the upper and lower edges of the wall cavity. When top to bottom of the space is covered use the tabs on the edges of the insulation to staple the insulation to the wall studs. You will want the vapor barrier ( paper or foil) to be neatly stapled leaving no wrinkles on the stud where you staple the insulation. Remember you have drywall that will go on next and any staples that are not in all of the way, or any wrinkles in the insulation can cause the drywall to bulge leaving a wavy wall. Please note in the video how nice and neat the insulation appears when she has completed the process, this is how your job should look. If you are doing a ceiling you have the options of using batting after the sheet rock is installed or blowing in the correct amount of insulation to meet the “R” factor (which is the thickness) required. When applying insulation to the walls you will need to separate the insulation and tuck approximately 1/2 of the thickness behind electrical boxes and plumbing pipes to insure they do not freeze in the winter. Once the back half has been tucked into place you simply apply the front half as you have done in the cavities that did not have plumbing or electrical to deal with. It is very important that you do not have insulation protruding over the stud in any area of the wall, make sure the insulation at the top and bottom of the wall is even with the top and bottom plate but not overflowing onto the wall surface. Before you cover the insulation with drywall make sure you have your local inspector signs off on the application, this process is required almost unanimously. Better to get it signed off now instead of having to remove the covering so they can do it later. With the insulation neatly tucked and stapled you can now caulk around window studs and floor plates to finalize the seal. You are now complete and ready for the drywall!

Insulation How to Install
Here is a video that covers the installation process in great detail. This video covers installing the insulation in a new addition, the process would be the same in a remodel as long as the drywall or plaster was removed.
Insulation Batting
Here is a great article explaining the installation process of a batting type insulation, but remember most areas require a vapor barrier (one that has a foil or paper backing attached). The process is the same for this and the vapor barrier type insulation and this article shows how it is done! The only difference is the vapor barrier type will be stapled on to the studs with the paper flanges attached to the insulation.  View the Article >>>
Insulating the Attic
This article shows in detail how to insulate the attic of your home. This is very detailed and explains the use of baffels at the soffits allowing essential air flow into the attic space. This article will take you all the way to completing your insulation project View the Article >>>

How to Install Insulation in Your Home

Installing insulation can add to the comfort in your home during the winter and summer months. This investment will also save you a lot of money by reducing the amount of warm air escaping in the winter and entering your home in the summer. There are many types of insulation available at your local home improvement stores. You will need to make sure you know which types will work in your specific application while also meeting the local building codes for your area. The building code information can be accessed at your local library or at your local building permit center, the rest we have for you right here on thediyhomepro. If you are remodeling an older home that has insufficient insulation you have a couple of options: 1) Blown in insulation which can be either drilled and blown in from outside or inside of the home. Note* this type of process leaves plugs where access to the walls was achieved, if you are going to put new siding or sheet rock in the home you may be able to cover the access plugs leaving no trace of the work. 2) Insulation batting which can be installed by removing the interior wall plaster or drywall, installing the batting and then replacing the wall surface with new drywall. Option #2 is the best and most energy efficient depending on the extent of your remodeling project. There are many TAX BREAKS associated with installing energy efficient insulation in your home so save the receipts ready for tax time! We have provided videos and articles below clearly outlining what you will need to know to complete this project, and if that is not enough you can simply ask our experts a question at the bottom of each article or go to our forum to see what others think. Lets get started on your new project!

Search The DIY Home Pro’s How To Guides:
Quick Links
What You’ll Need
The Technique
Books and DVDs
Hire A Contractor
Ask Our Experts
Tools Needed
Materials Needed

What You’ll Need
Installing insulation will require some specific tools to complete the job. We have provided a list of suggested tools and materials for your convenience. Remember that having the right tool for the job could very well be the deciding factor on how the job turns out!

The Tools You’ll Need

Tape Measure
Laying out your project will take a lot of measuring, a good tape measure should be on hand to complete this job! Stanley 33-725 25-Foot FatMax Tape Measure
Staple gun
A staple gun will be the tool used to install the insulation. Having the right tool for the job here is paramount in how the job will turn out! Make sure you have a good staple gun on hand and plenty of staples to complete the job.
Straight edge
A straight edge will be used to compress the insulation and guide the blade while cutting the material to size. A good straight edge is always handy for many projects around the home, be sure to have one on hand for this job. Empire Level 4006 72-Inch Aluminum Straight Edge
Razor Knife
A razor knife will be used to cut the insulation to size, this tool will make the job both easier and give more professional results. Be sure to have a good razor knife and extra blades on hand for this project! Bessey D-BKWH Quick-Change Folding Utility Knife – Wood Grain Handle
A hammer will be needed for several steps of the installation process, we have provided an inexpensive yet good model if you decide that you need a new one! 13
Caulking Gun
Once the insulation is in place you will need to caulk around the edges of the windows and walls to keep the seal tight, here is a dependable caulking gun for the job. Newborn Brothers 930-GTD Gator Trigger Drip-Free Hex Rod Caulk Gun
Better have plenty of these on hand for the job! These 1/4″ staples will be needed to hold that insulation tight in the wall cavity. Stanley Bostich Staples For P3-ind (5000/box) #sp19 1/4
The Materials You’ll Need

This will be needed to seal the edges of the material around the windows and floors, you will want to make sure that you have a joint that is air tight! Henkel Consumer Adhesives 24411-219 Vinyl Siding/window Sealant Caulk 10.2oz (Pack of 12)
Insulation comes in many “R” factors and several different sizes according to your specific application, we have provided a link for one of the most common sizes required today. You will be able to access all other types through this link as well, Good Luck!

Visit for part 2 –>